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From Hermit Kingdom to Tiger Economy - Seoul is a city reborn.

Seoul is an intriguing city transforming itself from the Yi Dynasty capital of the Hermit Kingdom to a major mover and shaker on the international scene, especially in the field of commerce and sports. Nowhere else is the Korean drive to come to terms with a turbulent and fractured past so evident.

Seoul was battered by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries and flattened by the Korean War; most of its cityscape is modern. Overshadowed by high-rises and 12-lane freeways, it yet retains a hidden history of centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens.

Seoul is in the northwest corner of South Korea. The border with North Korea is only about 40km (25mi) from the city centre. The central area is the most important for both sightseeing and accommodation, with Mt Namsan forming the southern perimeter. Tourists and shoppers are well at home in Itaewon, south of Mt Namsan. The Han River winds through the city, splitting it in two. The Gangnam-gu area on the south bank is Seoul's most exclusive neighbourhood, but on the whole, the southern areas have less interest to the traveller than the historic northern neighbourhoods. The World Cup stadium is to the west of the city, in Mapo-gu. Easily the most maddening thing about Seoul is the system of street addresses: there aren't any. If you've spent time in Japan, you might have some luck understanding the system, but probably have no better chance of actually finding anywhere without a detailed map; even the locals are baffled by the system. Addresses are not given according to consecutive numbers along a road, but as random numbers within an arbitrary block of land. You will need to wander around looking for your destination, as there are virtually no street signs (let alone street names). Most business cards have maps printed on the back.